The Fortified City of Chiangmai – Thailand

We love Thailand. Having lived all my life in the hustle and bustle of Mumbai, Bangkok is not very different. What is surely different is the traffic discipline and the patience to sit long hours in the car without honking! We wondered how when they have a fairly efficient metro. This cosmopolitan city with its high rises has a very impressive skyline. Enjoying a drink with some hors-d’oeuvre on the 35th floor just didn’t seem high enough! It is a must do when in Bangkok.

But Thailand has a lot more to offer apart from Bangkok and the famed beaches and islands in the south!

After a short stay in Bangkok, we took a trip to the cultural capital and the fortified city of Chiangmai. Situated in the northern part of Thailand and bordering Myanmar, this mountainous region is deep into Buddhism. The old walled city is almost a 2 km square with a thick brick wall. Astonishingly, some of the walls are still standing!

We arrived in Chiangmai on an Air Asia flight from Bangkok. Stepping out of the airport we hopped into a taxi and drove straight to our hotel, The Rim. The short 15 minute drive was the calmest drive we have ever witnessed from an airport. The peaceful vibes were unparalleled. The city landscape was scenic with beautiful architecture and most importantly, we could feel the inner peace in the people of Chiang Mai.

The Rim is a small quaint hotel in the heart of old city. It features classical Lanna architecture which you will see all around Chiangmai. The rooms are large with a sit out balcony. The hotel has a small outdoor pool which is a plus because a plunge is needed after soaking in the heat. The staff was very warm and friendly which was not surprising as people in the Land of Smiles are renowned for the hospitality and a cheery greeting, Sawadee Kha.

Exploring Chiangmai

After checking into the hotel, we were up and about exploring the pretty lanes of this historic city. Every 500 metres we came across a Buddhist monastery. Thai buddhist architecture was quite easy to spot. V shaped roofs jutting out towards the sky and walls with religious symbolism surrounding every temple. Since Thailand borders Myanmar it has inherited its influences from Myanmar and Laos. Northern Thailand used to be a separate kingdom, the Lanna Kingdom. The Lanna style of architecture is quite distinctive with stratified roofs and tiny doors and windows. There are almost 300 temples in the old city alone! Some we visited by just walking the streets and for a few we hired a tuk tuk for 100 Baht and we went exploring the sheer magnificence and history of this cultural capital.

Wat Phra Singh

This gorgeous temple is a must-see. It is Chiangmai’s most beautiful temple and is located right in the middle of the old city. The temple dates back to the 14th century when Chiangmai was the capital of the Lanna kingdom. Since then the temple has gone through constant renovation and up keep. The chedis or pagodas are the most sacred structure of the Wat. These chedis which used to be white are now painted in gold to give it a very impressive makeover.

The temple became very famous because earlier it used to house the Emerald Buddha which has now been shifted to Wat Phra Kaeo in Bangkok.

Wat Phra Singh felt like a mini bustling town with a small Sunday market shopping street, kids playing and vendors selling coconut water and ice-cream.

The highlight of the temple is Viharn Lai Kham, where the Phra Singh buddha is housed. It is a typical 3 tier roofed building built in Lanna architecture. While we were visiting the temple complex there was chanting of buddhist hymns that elevated the already calm vibes a notch.

Wat Sri Suphan

A very different and unique temple in Chiang Mai, Wat Sri Suphan is made of Silver inside and painted in Silver from Outside. This part of Chiangmai is known for its silver shops and skilled artisanal work created in silver and aluminium. On Saturday there is a walking street market which is a mini version of the Sunday Market that sets up every weekend in Chiangmai.

It is the world’s first silver Sanctuary. It is decorated and built by silver handicraftsmen (Lanna folk wisdom) of Wua Lai community that has been the descendants from their ancestors. Inside the sanctuary, each carved wall consists of the stories of Buddha, Buddhist doctrine, Thai Buddhist preachings, Buddha’s footprint and the happiness of life in believe of Buddhism. The silver sanctuary was established in B.E. 2547.

Women are not allowed to go inside the temple but can visit the complex. This is because of the Lanna belief that their presence will deteriorate the holy relics “or otherwise the lady herself” that is what the sign outside reads! For a moment I was quite taken a back considering how culturally modern the city is otherwise.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

Wat Phra That is one of the most sacred temples in Chiangmai located on Doi Suthep mountain. The temple is located around 15 kms outside Chiangmai. The easiest way to get there is to hire a taxi. But, if you are a good cyclist then this ride up the mountain is highly recommended. We would have loved doing this but we weren’t aware of this option before so we took a cab!

Climbing up the 300 stairs to the temple we came across seven headed serpent statues called Naga, which symbolises wisdom. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is home to hundreds of Buddhas that have been donated from all over the world. The gleaming Chedi is made of copper plate and is surrounded by four golden chatras or umbrellas which are a symbol of divinity. There are golden sculptures of Reclining Buddha and Buddha touching Earth are witness at this sacred temple. Within the temple are pagodas, ornate statues, bells and shrines. Lot of aspects of the temple draw both from Buddhism and Hinduism.

It is necessary to wear appropriate clothing when visiting the temples in Chiangmai. Sleeveless tops are not allowed and full pants are recommended.

The entire city of Chiangmai is surrounded by temples with a mind boggling cultural history. For a short stay of 3 days we were not able to see all of them. But some of the recommended temples are Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Suan Dok, Wat Umong, Wat Phra That Doi Kham and Wat Chiang Man and Wat Lok Molee.

And just like that our 3 days in Chiang Mai flew by.

Look out for my blog on the lovely night markets and cafes in Chiangmai

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