We arrived at Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu from Paris with high expectations as this was a city known for its culture, food, and history. But our first impression was… well, underwhelming. We took the tramway to Hotel Charlemagne, about 10 stops through Lyon’s modern quarter. The buildings were boxy, the streets quiet, and it lacked the charm we were chasing. This was new Lyon-functional, but not fabulous. And for a moment, we wondered if we’d made a mistake.
But Lyon, as we quickly discovered, is not a city you judge at first glance. It’s a city you grow into. And once you find your way into its heart, it’s hard not to fall in love.
Uncovering the Soul of Lyon: Vieux Lyon
We dropped our bags and set off immediately for Vieux Lyon, the old town and that’s where everything changed.
We walked along the Saone River, crossed old stone bridges and wandered into charming boutiques. Vieux Lyon is one of the largest Renaissance districts and it feels like stepping into another century. Narrow cobblestone alleys wind between pastel hued buildings, their wooden shutters hanging open above stone arcades. Wrought-iron balconies, flower pots, and carved doorways add to the detail. It’s all so authentically alive and yet looks very very old.
The vibe here is electric. There were lots of tourists, thanks to the French long weekend but the city handled the buzz with grace. Street performers played accordions and violins, tiny boutiques displayed handmade soaps, silk scarves, and artisanal biscuits, and cafes spilled out onto the cobbled streets.
Lyon is also famous for its traboules, hidden passageways that run through buildings and courtyards. Many are open to the public, and they’re a magical way to explore the city from the inside out, quite literally.
One thing that stood out? The food stalls. The macarons here aren’t your usual dainty Parisian ones. They’re made the old-fashioned way, with a crisp bite and deep almond flavor. And the gelatos? Let’s just say we made a few stops.
Above the City: Fourvière Hill and the Roman Theater
From Vieux Lyon, we boarded the funicular up to Fourvière Hill, and it’s an experience we can’t recommend enough.
Our first stop was the Ancient Roman Theater of Fourvière, built around 15 BC. And it truly blew us away.
This isn’t just a few scattered stones but a fully preserved amphitheater with massive semi-circular seating tiers, staircases, and stage architecture that still echoes the grandeur of Roman design. You can almost hear the whispers of the past poets, performers, and philosophers who once stood at its center.
Even more incredible? The theater is still in use today for performances during Lyon’s annual Nuits de Fourvière festival. It’s where antiquity meets artistry, and you can feel that energy in the air.
Just above it sits the majestic Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, with its gleaming white façade and Byzantine interiors. From its terrace, you get sweeping panoramic views over Lyon. You can see the rooftops of Old Town to the modern skyline of Part-Dieu. The contrast between old and new, history and progress, is all laid out in front of you.
A City That Wears Art on Its Walls
Back down in the city, we hunted for Lyon’s famous murals and what a treat they were. These aren’t just splashes of color, they’re giant trompe l’oeil masterpieces painted on entire building facades. People look out of painted windows, streets transform into scenes, and walls become stories. The most iconic one? The Fresque des Lyonnais, a towering mural that pays tribute to Lyon’s famous figures.
Every corner in Lyon seems to have something beautiful, whether it’s art, architecture, or just a passerby with a baguette and a smile.
Lyon’s Other Delights
We also spent time strolling down Rue de la République, the city’s main shopping artery. It’s grand and elegant, with wide sidewalks, lovely storefronts, and an unmistakable Parisian charm and to our delight without the chaos.
For museum lovers, the Musée Miniature et Cinéma is a hidden gem, featuring mind-blowing tiny sets and props from famous films, somehow we missed it due to lack of time.
And of course, the food. Lyon is the culinary capital of France, known for its bouchons, rich meat-based dishes, and a long legacy of chefs, including the legendary Paul Bocuse. If you’re a non-veg lover, Lyon will spoil you silly, think duck confit, quenelles, and saucisson in every shade. But as vegetarians we never felt left out.
From fresh salads loaded with goat cheese, nuts and honey to handmade pasta dishes with butter, truffle or creamy tomato sauces, we were spoilt for choice. The breads, the local cheeses, the desserts were in a league of their own.
We also had one unforgettable and humorous food fiasco in Lyon. My daughter, who speaks French, confidently ordered us a vegetarian Arrabiata pasta and that is what we thought. She mistook the word poulpe for “pulp” (thinking tomato), but it actually means octopus.
What arrived was a plate of pasta surrounded by perfectly arranged baby octopus tentacles, like a seafood crown around our veggie dreams. We were horrified… then hysterical. The staff was sweet enough to bring us a proper vegetarian version, but let’s just say: always double-check your French when ordering!
Final Thoughts: A City That Unfolds Slowly
Lyon is not flashy. It doesn’t scream for attention. But it rewards curiosity. The more you explore, the more it gives.
Our mother-daughter trip started with a little hesitation and ended in complete awe. Lyon, with its layers of history, color, culture, and cuisine, is a city that reveals itself gradually and then stays with you.
So if you’re planning a trip to France, don’t just stop at Paris. Make time for Lyon.
It might just become your favorite part of the journey.
More blogs from Around the World and Incredible India