Enchanting Sikkim – Land of the Lamas – Part 2

gurudongmar lake
Gurudongmar Lake at 17000 feet

North and West Sikkim (6 Nights)

After a wonderful time in Gangtok (Sikkim Part 1) we started our onward journey to the North of Sikkim. Our first destination was Lachen a very small town. It is the base camp if you wish to visit Gurudongmar lake. The road trip from Gangtok to Lachen is very picturesque. On the way, we stopped at a number of waterfalls that are pretty picnic spots. Lush green landscapes, snow capped mountains and small monasteries on hills, gives you a view of the country side at its best. You will be transported into peace and tranquility. It is truly eye-catching.

Lachen
Lachen
Waterfall Sikkim
Waterfall

Lachen and Gurudongmar Lake

We stayed the night at the Bichu Homestay which we had booked in advance through a travel agent ‘OurGuest’. Run by a mother and a son, the homestay has 4 rooms with heaters that are super comfortable and very clean. Lachen was freezing by our standards with the temperature as low as five degrees celsius in early November. In the evening, we went for a stroll to see the tiny town. Since there was not much to see or do we sat in a tiny cafe that served us delicious pakodas, fries and rum.

Dinner at the homestay was simple home cooked food; rice, chapati, dal, vegetable and salad. It was great to meet other travel enthusiasts at dinner with everyone sharing their travel experiences. We called it a night at 10 pm as we had an early and long day ahead of us.

Bichu Homestay
Bichu Homestay

Next morning we started at 6 am for Gurudongmar lake. Named after Guru Padmasambhava, the lake is considered sacred for the Hindus, Sikhs and the Buddhists. It is only a few kilometres away from the Chinese Tibetan border. There are numerous check posts, Indian army regiments and battalions stationed along the way, so certain travel documents and permits are required. It needs to be settled in advance by the travel agent. Due to border challenges only Indian tourists are allowed to visit this lake.

The drive from Lachen towards Gurudongmar is simply breathtaking. The landscape changes drastically as you climb higher and the vegetation thins leading to snow all around. As you get closer to the lake, the road gets quite rugged so we were driving at only 15 kms an hour.

Gurudongmar lake is situated at a height of 17800 feet and is one of the highest lakes in the world. It is advisable to carry an oxygen canister which can be bought at any chemist when in Gangtok. On reaching the top, tourists were struggling with altitude sickness and nausea. The key is, when you get off the car, stand for a couple of minutes or more to allow your body to acclimatise and then take small slow steps. We were parked quite far so we walked 500 meters because of traffic to reach the lake

The glittering water is emerald blue surrounded by snow capped mountains and is fed by glaciers located to the north of Kanchenjunga range. The lake freezes from Mid November to May. The temperature was around 1 in November so make sure you carry appropriate woolies.

It is totally worth taking this journey from Lachen. After taking a few selfies and insta worthy pictures we started our journey to Lachung for an overnight stay.  

Gurudongmar lake
Gurudongmar Lake
Gurudongmar lake Jai
Gurudongmar lake

Lachung and Yumthang Valley

Lachung is a bigger town than Lachen and quite commercialised. It is the base camp for Yumthang valley and Zero Point. We stayed at a homestay run by a beautiful family. The home cooked food was simple, but delicious. There are not many cafes or roadside dhabas available on these long drives so its best to eat well at the homestay. Since there is not much to do carry a book, or relax and soak into the serene environment. It is a welcome break as the drives are long but totally worth the experience.

Next morning we headed to Yumthang valley and Zero Point. Yumthang valley, also known as the valley of flowers is a picturesque valley located by the bank of the Teesta river. It is a beautiful sanctuary with yaks grazing, snow capped mountains and a wonderful spot to take selfies.

Just near the parking area there a few shops that caught my attention. They were selling pretty Tibetan shawls, stolls and some souvenirs that I took back for my friends and family. We spent an hour exploring the valley and then headed to Zero Point. The significance of Zero Point is not much. It’s just the last point that tourists can go beyond which is the Tibetan border. When we got there it was completely covered with snow with tourists’ having fun throwing snow at each other. You can also rent shoes from a lady at Zero Point if you wish to walk on snow. She is quite enterprising. She sells freshly made momos, maggi and rum by the glass that helps you enjoy the cold weather even more.

If you are short on days and you wish to make a choice between Lachen and Lachung I would suggest Lachen and Gurudongmar Lake. It is an experience of a lifetime! But if you are someone who finds high altitudes very difficult then Lachung is a better option.

Yumthang Valley
Lachung Homestay
Kids in Lachung

Pelling and Ravangla-West Sikkim

From Lachung we headed back to Gangtok for an overnight stay. Lachung to Pelling is a very long route so it is essential to spend the night in Gangtok. We stayed at the Lemon tree hotel. The rooms are very comfortable and the food is superb. The only drawback is the location. It is quite far from the city centre MG Road. It would be convenient if the hotel could arrange a shuttle service to and from MG market at least a couple of times in the day. But since we had already done our sight seeing in Gangtok earlier, we just used it to spend the night and left for Pelling via Ravangla the next morning.

Ravangla is a small tourist town that offers breathtaking views of the Greater Himalayan Range. It is known for its gigantic Buddha park. The main attraction is the statue of buddha that is 130 feet high. It has some nice pathways for a soothing stroll and enjoy ample peace. you can grab a bite at a couple of cafes that offer authentic Sikkimese cuisine. After enjoying a couple of hours in Ravangla we headed to Pelling, located in the western part of Sikkim. Pelling being a hill station gets often compared to Darjeeling. Unlike the hustle and bustle of Darjeeling, it is a very quiet hill station with nothing much to do but enjoy the mesmerising views of Kanchenjunga.

Ravangla Buddha Park
Ravangla Buddha Park

Pelling, West Sikkim

This town was the highlight of our trip. We instantly fell in love with it because of magnificent views of the mighty Kanchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world. The enthralling mountain is situated on the border of 3 countries India, Nepal and Tibet. As the crow flies, Kanchenjunga is only 40 kms away from Pelling and on an absolutely clear day it is quite a sight. You will feel the entanglements of your heart fade away as you witness the first ray of the sunlight bathing the peak in a golden hue. If you look carefully the entire range of mountains together look like a sleeping Buddha. If you enjoy trekking, there are numerous agencies that organise treks to Kanchenjunga base camp.

Mighty Kanchenjunga

We stayed at the Kaya Resorts and Spa. The best part of the hotel is the location. The rooms are super huge and comfortable. The views of the Kanchenjunga from the comfort of your hotel room will leave you in awe.

Pemayangtse Monastery

Pelling hosts one of the the premiere monasteries in Sikkim, Pemayangtse. It offers a meditative environment as it is quietly set amongst the woods. The monastery is 300 years and the 3 storey building showcases Buddhist paintings, relics and statues of saints and Rinpoches. The monastery is painted in traditional Tibetan design. It is the perfect place to meditate for inner peace and tranquility. 

Rabdentse Ruins

The Rabdentse ruins are part of Buddhist religious pilgrimage circuit starting with the first Monastery of Yuksom known as the Dubdi monastery. Rabdentse was the second capital of the former kingdom of Sikkim from 1670 to 1814. It is a short trek of about half an hour through a forest. The site is very well maintained and the views are stunning for your Gram Pics!

rabdentse ruins
Rabdentse Ruins

Pelling Skywalk

Pelling skywalk is the first glass skywalk in India. The skywalk is a wonderful experience and quite stunning. The 137 feet tall Chenrezig statue is a sight to behold with golden prayer wheels on both sides. The panoramic views of the snow capped mountains is overwhelming. 

India’s first Skywalk
The Chenrezig Statue

We also visited the Khecheopalri lake which we thought was quite a hype. It is a part of the Buddhist pilgrimage circuit. The walk through the woods to reach the lake is quite relaxing but its fine to give it a miss.

Our 9 days in Sikkim were absolutely fabulous. The state with its quaint monasteries, dramatic landscapes, mountains, lakes, waterfalls and stunning green valleys makes it one of the most sought after destinations in North East India. The people of Sikkim are very peaceful and friendly

If you haven’t explored it yet then pack your bags and visit this extraordinary state in the north east. 

Have a read of Part 1 of the blog if you have missed it.

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