Cinque Terre

The first time I went on a trip to Europe was way back in 1990. Travelling on an International airline was considered prestigious. International travel was always planned with a tours and travel agency. SOTC and Raj Travels were the most popular. Since Indians are predominantly vegetarian, and in the 1990s vegetarian food was almost impossible to find in most European countries, a cook, popularly known as a ‘Maharaj’ in Gujarati communities, would accompany the group. A trip to Europe was like 6 countries in 21 days! The itinerary was somewhat like this : London, Paris, Zurich, Interlaken, Rome, Venice, Amsterdam, Frankfurt and Stuttgart. Everyone would come back thrilled thinking they had seen Europe!

Over the years the concept of travelling abroad has considerably changed in India as there is a better adaptation to globalisation and cultural sensitivity by the younger generations.

With a couple of our friends we planned a 10 day trip to Italy which still left a few people flabbergasted! Our itinerary mainly comprised of a week in Tuscany (My blog : A Driving Holiday in Tuscany) and a couple of days in Cinque Terre.

Cinque Terre

What we witnessed in Cinque Terre was simply heart stopping. The five fishing villages of Monterosso, Vernazza, Cornelia, Manarola and Riomaggiore on the Italian Riviera in the region of Liguria are iconic highlights. We had made a reservation in the village of Monterosso al Mare at I Coralli rooms and apartments. Owned by a family for generations, the rooms are small but colourful, typical to the traditions of Cinque Terre. The location is fabulous as it is near to all the restaurants, the beach and the start of the trekking trail to Vernazza is also very close. The best way to reach Monterosso is by train. We took a train from Florence with one change at La Spezia Centrale. The total journey was about two and a half hours. The Liguria region is very hilly so make sure your luggage is easy to lug around.

Manarola
Manarola

Village Hopping in Cinque Terre

There are 3 ways of exploring the villages of Cinque Terre.

  1. Walk the entire route of 12 kms that runs along the coast through all 5 villages from Monterosso in the North to Riomaggiore in the South.
  2. Take the Train
  3. A private boat or Ferry.

We took a large ferry from Monterosso to Manarola. Hundreds of tourists hop on and hop off depending on which village you would like to visit. The Ferry does not stop at Corniglia since this is the only village without water access. The time of the boat rides are fixed. So during the peak touristy months of July and August this can be quite stressful. You may not get enough time to relax and soak in the vibes at your own pace. The lanes of the villages are quite narrow and it can get super crowded. We were visiting in May which was also quite crowded and we felt rushed due to the ferry timings. The other issue is the timings are quite spaced out so the queues to board the ferry are very long.

Vernazza

The views from the sea are absolutely magnificent. Passing through the quaint colourful harbours was simply picturesque. The most pretty and charming village is Manarola. The village is all ups and downs with steep narrow alleys that lead to the sea. We went to the top of Manarola for majestic ocean views. There is a hiking trail from Manarola to Corniglia but the first part is quite steep with 1200 steps. Since the village of Corniglia does not have access to the sea, taking the train is a better option. After spending a couple of hours in Manarola we took the ferry and hopped off at Vernazza.

Hike from Vernazza to Monterosso

The village of Vernazza was founded in 1000 A.D. The tiny port is surrounded by subtle colourful pastels and the charming piazza is lined with some nice restaurants and bars. Cinque Terre is known for its pesto, so after having flavoursome pasta we decided to hike from Vernazza to Monterosso. While on the hike, we saw wonderful Olive plantations and we were told the region is native to the best Olive Oil in the country, so don’t forget to pick a bottle. The hike took us about 2 hours. To hike on this part of the trail we had to purchase the Cinque Terra card which is 7.5 euros per person. The rest of the trails apart from this one and Vernazza to Corniglia are free. On nearing Monterosso we found a local vendor selling fresh Limoncello. It is a fluorescent-yellow liqueur which is the pride and joy of the Liguria region. It was tangy and refreshing. Lemons grow like crazy in Cinque Terre. So much so they feature in all sorts of regional food. Lemon themed souvenirs are sold everywhere.

The hiking trail
Monterosso Beach

The food scene in this region is quite awesome. Because its on the coast it is known for its seafood. Shellfish, mussels, Calamari and Octopus are popular on the menu. If you are a vegetarian, there are some great options too. The pastas are to die for, especially in pesto sauce. The focaccia, a light hybrid of pizza glistened with olive oil is mouth-watering. Don’t miss out on the Aperol Spritzes, fine Italian wines and ice-cold beers on the superlative hiking routes.

Aperol Spritz
Aperol Spritz

Cinque Terre was a different yet wonderful experience and we were thrilled that we explored a different region in Italy. After two days well spent we headed back to Florence for our onward journey to Rome.


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