A Visit To Awantipura Ruins And Martand Sun Temple

My trip to Kashmir was mixed with feelings of grief and wonder while witnessing its incredible beauty. The predominantly mountainous region with deep narrow valleys and high plateaus is the Switzerland of India. But due to the varied cultural history and ideology followed by political turmoil, it brings a sense of grief in the minds of many.

Kashmir originally was an important centre of Hinduism followed by Buddhism. During the 7th to the 14th century, the region was ruled by Hindu dynasties. To understand the ancient history of this region we took a day trip (highly recommended) from Srinagar to The Awantipura Ruins and the Martand Sun Temple.

The Awantipura ruins are approximately 30 kms from Srinagar and an hour from the Awantipura ruins is the Martand Surya temple.

Awantipura Ruins

Awantipura is located on the way to Pahalgam. It is a very small town on the banks of river Jhelum but of great historical significance. It is a small temple built by king Awantivarman in 853-855 CE. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it was always a religious place of worship for Hindus until the reign was taken over by an Afghani ruler, Sultan Sikandar Butshikan.

The temple was largely destroyed due to muslim conquests. It stood for 400 years until in the beginning of the 14th century there was also a massive earthquake that destroyed some parts of the temple. It was buried 800 metres below the ground. In 1923 – 24, the remains of the temple were dug out by the British. The statues and silver were taken away by the colonial rule. The whole complex is in ruins. Statues of deities are lying all over the place which is quite perturbing.

My travel buddies and I were able to spot a few depictions such as the nine planets and the reign of the kings. We spotted Lord Vishnu sitting on Sheshnag. There are carvings of goddess Ganga sitting on a crocodile. The village that surrounds the temple, a whole ancient city can be found beneath the village if excavated. Its remarkable!

There are four other temples near the Awantipura ruins dedicated to Laxmi, Saraswati, Earth and Ganesh.

While it’s difficult to confirm without archaeological excavation, there have been intriguing speculation, about the possibility of discovering thousands of statues or even an entire underground city buried beneath the nearby localities of Avantipura. The rich historical and cultural heritage of the region, coupled with its significance as a center of ancient civilisation, fuels these tantalising theories. Only time and further exploration will reveal the truth hidden beneath the surface, adding yet another layer of mystery and intrigue to the storied past of Avantipura.

Martand Sun Temple

The Martand Sun Temple ruins, often overlooked by many travellers visiting Srinagar, are truly a hidden gem of Kashmir’s architectural wonders. Nestled amidst the majestic Pir Panjal range, this marvel stands as a testament to ancient craftsmanship and ingenuity.

Surprisingly, the drive from Srinagar is only about two hours, making it a perfect day trip destination. Protected and maintained by the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India, the Martand Sun Temple boasts a breathtaking backdrop of the Pir Panjal range of mountains. The temple holds a distinguished place among the four most ancient Sun Temples of India, alongside Mother, Konark and Dakshinaarka.

Martand is located on a plateau in the Anantnag district of J&K. It is now in ruins as it was destroyed by a Mughal ruler Sikandar Shah Miri. The temple is dedicated to the Sun god Surya and Martand, is a Sanskrit synonym of Surya.

Martand was built by King Lalitaditya in the 8th century CE. He was one of the greatest and most courageous kings of Kashmir. He belonged to the Karkota dynasty. The Karkota rulers were Hindus but they also patronised Buddhism. Stupas, Chaityas and Viharas have also been found near the Martand Ruins. Being one of the most learned kings, he had a lot of interest in art and culture. Hence he built some marvellous temples during his reign. Other temples built by King Lalitaditya are the temples of Naranag and Parihaspora ruins (Ancient Capital of Kashmir).

In the courtyard there is an assembly Hall, two step wells and glimpses of intricate carvings of Hindu deities. There are a total of 84 shrines in the complex. The main shrine located in the centre is quite huge. It dons a pyramid (also known as Shikhar) which represents a Kashmiri style of architecture. The main shrine consists of an oblong garbha Griha (sanctum), Antrala (vestibule) and spacious Mandapa. Different gods, like Vishnu, as well as river goddesses, like Ganga and Yamuna, are depicted in the antechamber of the main shrine in complement to the sun deity Surya. Standing in the centre of the main shrine I could feel the vibrations of the chanting of shlokas and mantras!

While it is commendable that the ASI, is endeavouring to restore some of its lost glory but the scale of destruction is staggering and, in many ways, beyond repair. The intricate craftsmanship, profound symbolism, and deep spiritual significance infused by our ancestral kings into there architectural marvels are unparalleled. Attempting to match their skill, knowledge and profound understanding of Hinduism seems like an insurmountable task. Each crumbling stone is a poignant reminder of the rich cultural heritage that once thrived, leaving us in awe of the legacy left behind by our forebears.

The Awantipura ruins and the Martand Sun Temple were once revered as monuments of immense significance to Hindus in Kashmir. Tragically, both sites now lie in ruins, a somber reflection of the tumultuous history and shifting landscapes of Kashmir. However, amidst the crumbling stones and weathered facades, one can still discern traces of the grandeur and splendour that once defined these sacred space.

In my recent visit to the Bayon Temple in Angkor Wat, I couldn’t help but marvel at the fascinating coexistence of Hinduism and Buddhism, reminiscent of the harmonious blend I observed during the reign of the Karkotta rulers of Kashmir. Within the temple walls, I was struck by a remarkable sight-a statue of Buddha and a Shivilingam worshipped side by side. This juxtaposition of two distinct religious icons highlights the rich tapestry of cultural exchange and spiritual syncretism that characterised ancient societies.

Don’t miss out on the insights and discoveries awaiting you in my next blog on my exploration of Angkor Wat and beyond.

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