A Train Ride On The Bernina Express: Switzerland

Switzerland, when travelling from India is all about Yash Chopra, Interlaken, Mount Titlis and Jungfrau. Apparently Yash Chopra visited Switzerland during his honeymoon and absolutely fell in love with the pristine lakes, majestic landscapes, the Swiss Alps and stunning valleys. Then came the movies. I’m sure you’ve heard of Darr, Mohabbatein, Veer Zaara, or Chandani. The most famous, Dilwale Dulhaniya Le Jayenge caused people to flock to Switzerland. Switzerland and Yash Chopra had a great love affair so much so that in 2016 a bronze statue of Yash Chopra was installed by the Government of Switzerland. He was also honoured as ‘The Ambassador of Interlaken’ and given many more such accolades. This was how Switzerland was introduced to Indians at large, over at least 3 decades ago. I went on a trip with my folks in 1995 and we followed exactly the same itinerary.

Even now, 30 years later, Yash Chopra’s picture of Switzerland continues to influence Indians’ trip itineraries. One day I came across an essay written by one of my daughter’s friends in her school magazine. The friend narrates her experience of a trip to Switzerland with her family. She writes that Switzerland is now a mini India with famous landmarks catering to Indian tourists. One can find samosa vendors, Maggi and other Indian food on Mt. Titlis.

After reading this, I was determined to make sure that we didn’t have the same experience. For us, the point of travelling is to immerse ourselves in different cultures and enjoy the variety that each culture offers. We wanted to see things that were uniquely Swiss in nature and so when we went to Switzerland in May 2018, we took a slightly different approach.

Our Train Journey

The two most talked about train journeys in Europe :

1. The Bernina Express
2. The Glacier Express

The Bernina Express runs from Chur in Switzerland to Tirano in Italy while the Glacier Express runs from Zermatt to St Moritz in Switzerland. Both the train routes are absolutely eye-catching. For us, the Bernina Express was the obvious choice because after Switzerland we were heading to Italy for a Driving Holiday in Tuscany.

We had already spent a week in Switzerland visiting the capital city of Bern and the French speaking town of Montreux situated on the stunning Lake Geneva. To reach Chur, we hopped on a train from Bern with a change at Zurich. The ride from Zurich to Chur is very picturesque with lush green landscapes, small streams, and tiny villages in the Swiss countryside.

Charming Town Of Chur

Chur, situated in East Switzerland is the oldest town in Switzerland with a settlement history of 5000 years. The car-free mountain city in the heart of the Alps is very pretty and charming. The winding quaint cobbled streets lead to a 13th century old Cathedral in the courtyard of Bishop’s Palace. We stayed the night at the Ambiente Hotel Freieck AG. This cute cosy hotel is situated in the heart of old town. Ambling the streets we found numerous cafes, boutiques and historic buildings that makes this town delightful. Back at the hotel, the colonial style bar caught our attention. The home made cherry liquor is a must try.

The Bernina Express

Next morning we boarded the Bernina Express from Chur Station. Considered to be Europe’s most scenic train, the entire route has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It took us 4 hours from Chur to Tirano. The train negotiates 55 tunnels and 196 bridges! After departing from Chur it heads to Reichneu and turns South to Domleschg valley which is known for its castles. It continues south crossing numerous valleys and the curvy Landwasser Viaduct. It keeps gaining height until it reaches the Albula tunnel in the upper Engadine valley. Pontresina is the most prominent town in this valley. From Pontresina it climbs further to some of the highest peaks of the canton of graubunden and the highest glacier called Morteratsch. The entire landscape is white! We came across a white lake called Lago Bianco. After passing the lake post it ascended to the highest pass at Ospizio Bernina at 7,391 feet above sea level. The Bernina Express then begins its descent passing the station of Alp Drum that offers great views of the Palu Glacier. The train then runs through lots of curves and descends into the pretty Poschiavo valley which looks more Italian than Swiss. It descends further and passes through the most famous and pictured Brusio Spiral Viaduct. It is truly a marvellous piece of engineering. Fifteen minutes later it crosses over the border of Italy into the town of Tirano.

On the Bernina Express they serve snacks, coffee and wine that you can purchase to complement the panoramic views. The train stops at a couple of stations where you can get off and take stunning photographs at higher altitudes.

This, my friends was the end of a lovely ride on the Bernina Express which was totally worth the experience. We spent the night in the Old town of Tirano on the Italian border. Next morning we headed to Florence.

Keep an eye out for my blog, A Driving Holiday in Tuscany.

Until then, Ciao!