Punakha Bound: Fog, Flavours & 108 Reasons to Smile
As we left behind the calm charm of Thimphu, our journey to Punakha began—and with it, came a whole new wave of excitement. The winding roads, the cool mountain breeze, and the anticipation of what lay ahead had us glued to the windows. But the real showstopper? Our stop at the Dochula Pass.
Nestled at over 3,000 meters, Dochula is home to the ethereal 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens—a circle of white stupas that looked like something out of a dream, even under a blanket of fog. The Himalayas decided to play shy that day, staying hidden behind thick clouds—but honestly, the place had its own mystical magic. We could’ve stayed there for hours.
And then… the café. Perched perfectly above the pass, this little mountain retreat served up banana bread that could heal hearts, tiramisu that made us swoon, and chocolate cake so good, we considered moving in. Add to that some Bhutanese rice beer, frothy cappuccinos, and lots of laughter—it was the kind of pit stop that turns into a core memory.
Sure, we missed the Himalayan views this time—but we gained something else: brilliant photos, happy bellies, and the feeling of being in the clouds, quite literally. And honestly, it only gives us one more reason to go back.
River Views & Royal Vibes: Welcome to Punakha
As we descended into the lush valley of Punakha, the vibe shifted—slower, greener, and deeply serene. We checked into Punatsangcchu Cottages, a hidden gem tucked right along the riverbank. Honestly, the location was straight out of a postcard. Waking up to the sound of the river, sipping morning coffee during al fresco breakfasts, and just lazing by the water—bliss doesn’t even begin to cover it.
The rooms were warm and welcoming, and the setting? Simply spectacular. You know those places that make you instantly want to hit pause on life? Yep, this was it.
Once we’d freshened up (and spent a good while gushing over the view), we headed off to one of Bhutan’s crown jewels—the Punakha Dzong. Majestic, spiritual, and beautifully maintained, it’s a place that holds the heart of Bhutanese history and royalty. Many royal ceremonies—including royal weddings—are held here, and the walls carry centuries of stories whispered in silence.
The courtyards were serene, the air heavy with incense and calm, and we even got lucky with a few photo ops with the monks, who were kind and open-hearted. It’s not every day that you pose with maroon-robed monks against a backdrop of golden woodwork and fluttering prayer flags.
And just when we thought the day couldn’t get better, it was time for a little thrill—a walk across Bhutan’s iconic suspension bridge. Stretching across the river, this long, swaying bridge was equal parts nerve-wracking and exhilarating. We laughed, clung to the ropes, posed dramatically, and soaked in the incredible views.
What made it even better? On the other side of the bridge: ice cream and coffee stalls. Because yes, Bhutan knows how to end a day right.
Trekking, Rafting & A Riverside Feast: Punakha Keeps Surprising
The next morning in Punakha was nothing short of magical. We started our day with a short, scenic trek to a quiet temple, nestled in the hills. Just about 45 minutes long, this walk felt even more beautiful than our Cheri Monastery climb. It was simple, soulful, and the views—rolling hills, fluttering prayer flags, and the peaceful valley below—made it one of those moments where time slows down.
Fresh off the trek, it was time to switch gears—river rafting on the Mochu! Ideal for first-timers, the rapids were gentle, but the scenery? Unreal. Floating through the wide valley, watching the world go by from the river’s edge, we even dipped in for a quick chilly swim. Laughing, splashing, and holding on to our rafts—it was a core memory in the making.
But the real highlight of the day? A surprise riverside lunch. We had canopies set up right along the water, and a Bhutanese spread that felt straight out of a dream. Surrounded by nature, with the river flowing beside us, it was one of those “pinch me” travel moments. Honestly, it felt like something out of a movie—wholesome, immersive, and unforgettable.
Post lunch, we made an unexpected stop that turned out to be a gem. Our guide took us to a local art studio in Punakha town, run by one of his friends. There, we admired colorful Bhutanese artwork, browsed through charming souvenir shops, and even learned about “Ara”—a local rice-based alcoholic drink. Watching it being made, and then tasting it fresh, was such a unique and authentic experience. Earthy, slightly fiery, and very Bhutan.
We wrapped up the day with a visit to the famous Fertility Temple, Chimi Lhakhang—but that’s a whole other story of laughs, legends, and shopping by the village lanes.
Of Blessings, Laughter & Legends: Chimi Lhakhang, the Temple of the Divine Madman
Our last stop in Punakha was the iconic Chimi Lhakhang, also known as the Fertility Temple. Nestled among golden paddy fields and reached via a gentle walk through a quaint village, this temple is unlike anything you’ve seen before.
Dedicated to Drukpa Kunley, lovingly (and mischievously) known as the Divine Madman, this temple comes with quite the reputation. His unconventional methods of teaching—often laced with humor, shocking acts, and an open disregard for convention—have given rise to stories that are equal parts hilarious, bizarre, and oddly spiritual.
Let’s just say: you’ll need to visit with an open mind. From phallic symbols painted on walls to the blessings performed in the temple—it’s all part of the experience. Weird? Maybe. But deeply rooted in Bhutanese culture? Absolutely.
We walked around the village, giggling over souvenirs (yes, there are phallus keychains), soaking in the cheeky legends, and embracing the mix of faith and folklore that makes Chimi Lhakhang so unique.
It was the perfect way to end our time in Punakha—a blend of culture, countryside, laughter, and stories that stay with you long after you’ve left.
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