Majuli, nestled in the Bhramaputra in the state of Assam, India, proudly holds the title of the world’s largest river island. Encompassing approximately 353 square kilometres. It is remarkably big for an island!
Every state in the North East of India is a gem and needs to be given equal time and importance to understand its culture and stunning landscape. Most of this part of India is less urbanised and hence the essence of each state has been preserved and is very heart-stirring.
Assam is bifurcated into Lower and Upper Assam. Lower Assam is more urban in nature with Guwahati as its capital and Upper Assam is known for its rustic charm and raw appeal. The most visited destination in Upper Assam is the Kaziranga forest renowned for its one-horned Rhinos. We had marvellous experiences there, and I look forward to sharing them with you in my upcoming blog. But what touched us deeply and gave us a very unique perspective was the River Island of Majuli in the Brahmaputra.
Getting To Majuli
Planning ahead is key for a trip to Majuli. An early morning start will ensure you make the most of your time on the island. The closest town to spend the night is Jorhat. Next morning one needs to drive for a short half-hour to Nimati ghat to board the ferry for scenic Majuli.
We arrived at Nimati Ghat at around 7:45 am. My husband and I found ourselves in a lengthy ticket queue which took around 20 minutes to clear. With about half an hour to spare before boarding the ferry, we seized the opportunity to grab some breakfast.
The most popular dish in Assam is called “Luchi Alu Tarkari” which is similar to Puri Bhaji. But in lot of places they serve it with different kinds of lentils instead of potato. It is super delicious either way. Unfortunately, the breakfast took a bit longer to prepare, leaving us with minimal time to eat. We had to rush to catch our ferry.
We boarded the ferry at 8:30 am. So here is the thing. There are government owned ferries and there are privately owned ferries. The government ferries are way better, larger and safer than the private ferries. So plan your day and return trip as per the timing of the government owned ferry. On boarding the ferry we were pleasantly surprised as everyone was wearing a life jacket! It felt nice to see people following rules! The ferry was absolutely packed with locals and it seemed we were the only tourists on board. We felt a bit uneasy and apprehensive as it surpassed our comfort zone. Adding to the already overwhelming situation, a couple of cars and bikes boarded onto the ferry making it very chaotic. Despite the challenges seen in the photo of private ferries, trust me the government operated ferries are superior. Don’t be discouraged by this image; the overall experience is truly worthwhile.
Apparently there was a festival happening at the Auniati Satra and hence the crowds. But I believe it is always packed as locals travel to and from Majuli everyday for work.
It took us an hour and fifteen minutes to reach the island. The Brahmaputra is a mighty river that feels like an ocean! Crossing the river was a wonderful experience. There were tons of taxis waiting at the Kamalabari ghat. Distances are huge so it is best to hire a taxi for the day. It will cost you between 2000 to 2500 INR. While we decided to do a day trip, one could also spend a night and couple of days to explore the island.
One of the most unique identity of Majuli are the traditional stilt houses made from Bamboo called Chang ghar. These belong to the Mishing tribe which is one of the indigenous communities of the region.
The Satras
Majuli is known for its vibrant festivals and its Satras or temples. There are almost 300 Satras on the island and all our unique in their own way. One of the renowned Satras we visited is the Auniati Satra. It is the oldest and is recognised for its classical dance forms. It is home to the Raas Leela festival that celebrates the divine love of Radha and Krishna. It is performed on full moon day in the month of October/November. Huge crowds come to celebrate and witness this performance by various artists. It is truly a part of Assamese culture and heritage. There is a small museum in the same complex which is worth a look.
Some of the other Satras you can visit is the Kamalabari Satra, which is the origin of the Neo-Vaishnavism movement started by Sankardeva in the 16th century. The satra is known for its traditional Satriya dance and music. A couple of other popular Satras that you may like to visit is the Dakhinpat Satra and the Garamurh Satra.
Mask Making
A fun thing to do in Majuli is to see a workshop on Mask making. Majuli masks feature intricate designs reflecting characters from Hindu mythology. The masks are made from bamboo, clay and natural colours. These characters are part of cultural narratives that portray mythological stories with dance performances. We visited a very experienced mask maker by the name of Hem Chandra Goswami. He has received India’s fourth highest civilian award Padma Shri in 2023 for his contributions in the field of Art. It was fun to try a few masks and step into a mythical comedy show. I felt like a mischievous god or a whimsical character in a cultural play!
Embracing Majuli
I recently came a cross a blog that spoke about the young children of tribal families in Majuli, it touched my heart. The island is rapidly shrinking due to erosion leading to hardships for the residents. Majuli is prone to heavy floods as the waters of the Brahmaputra can rise to dangerous levels. The indigenous people go through a lot of difficulties as they have to travel long distances on foot and by boat to receive basic education. Most of the tribes in Majuli are very poor and education is the only way that will help them better their lives. There is an ongoing fundraising effort by an NGO that will hopefully help the children secure a better future.
Exploring Majuli was more than just a trip, it was a journey that felt straight through the heart. Majuli’s wild beauty and the lovely people left us both with memories that are simple and unforgettable. I am convinced that dedicating a couple of days would be a far richer experience than a quick day trip. The islands’s charm unfolds gradually and you need time to immerse in Majuli’s essence of rawness. It is so huge and distances are long that you will forget you are on an island!
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