After an exhilarating trip to Sikkim a couple of years ago we were super excited to explore more of the North East. Diwali is a wonderful time to travel as every place is lit with magnificent lights and you can feel the buzz. Being anxious travel buffs we have an itinerary planned for all the north eastern states. Trust me it is difficult to pick one as all our exceptionally beautiful. We decided to head to Assam.
Flights can be super boring. But not when you have magnificent aerial views of the Eastern Himalayas. The feeling of flying parallel to the snow clad mountains is breathtaking! We could see an expansive range of the Eastern Himalayas for miles which took our level of excitement to greater heights.
Well, it is said reality on the ground is very different and so it was. We soon hit the crazy traffic of Guwahati that was moving at a snails pace and took us so long to cover short distances. Novotel which is located right in the heart of the city is a good option and highly recommended. On reaching the hotel we gathered our thoughts on how we would like to spend our next 36 hours considering that reaching places was quite a task!
On checking with the locals these are a few touristy things we opted for in Guwahati.
Maa Kamakhya Temple
Guwahati is renowned for the hindu temples, adding a cultural and spiritual dimension to the cityscape. Appreciating temple architecture while not engaging in idol worship reflects a unique perspective that values the artistic and historical aspects of religious structures and hence our visit to the world famous Maa Kamakhya temple. Located on the Nilachal hills, the temple is dedicated to goddess Kamakhya.
The road leading to the temple was quite typical with both sides flanked with shops selling incense, flowers, garlands etc for Pujas which you will find with most temples across India.
On reaching the temple, our first sight was a stone structure with a shikara on top which seemed to be built much later. The main sanctum houses the yoni-shaped stone representing the goddesses’ divine fertility. The temple was very crowded as it was the day of Dhanteras, an auspicious day for Hindus. The lines to go inside the temple were huge. We decided to take a complete round of the temple and in doing so we realised the temple complex is quite huge with 3 to 4 stone structures. The temple site is also home to an annual festival called the Ambubachi Mela that celebrates the menstruation of the goddess! Yes you read this right. We were quite stunned too! While going around we were taken a back by screaming goats, only to realise goats were being slaughtered for offerings and this led to our speedy exit!
Umananda
Umananda is the smallest river island in the world. What is really fascinating is, it is located on the mighty Brahmaputra. Our taxi driver dropped us at Kachari ghat from where we could hop on to a boat. But before we did that we just spent a couple of minutes admiring the mesmerising views of the Brahmaputra. The never ending vast expanse of water felt like an ocean!
The river’s long journey begins in the Kailash mountains and flows into Tibet, Bangladesh and Assam. It merges with the Bay of Bengal to complete its very steep journey through the mountains and narrow gorges to finally flatten in the plains. Over the course of its journey it is joined by 20 tributaries!
With an abundance of gushing water, the river has been known for causing floods and destruction.
After purchasing a ticket we hopped on to a boat which is operated by the government and are actually quite nice. The boat was completely full of locals. The short trip to Umananda was a lovely experience. In the midst of the refreshing breeze we enjoyed the expansive views of the river and captured some Insta worthy pictures on the deck.
On arriving, we climbed a few steps to reach the top of the island. Centre piece of the island is a small shiva temple located on the top which brings in a large number of visitors during the Shivratri festival. It was a very smoggy day in Guwahati so we missed seeing beautiful views of the city. Other than visiting the temple there is not much to do on the island. The boat returns almost after an hour and a half to take you back so we felt stranded!
Food Scene in Guwahati
Guwahati is popular for its cafes and Restaurants. The diverse culinary scene caters to varied tastes. Whether you are in the mood for traditional Assamese cuisine, international flavours or trendy cafe’s, Guwahati provides a great experience for foodies.
Mising Kitchen
This no frill restaurant is a must try and has some outstanding food. The vegetarian thali is excellent. For non vegetarians there are tons of options too. The Mising kitchen is dedicated to the Mising tribe of Assam and the food highlights their rich culture and unique flavours. It holds a significant presence in the diverse tapestry of the region which can be experienced in Majuli, the largest river island in the world.
Terra Maya
Terra Maya is located on the terrace of a mediocre building in the prime area of Guwahati. The restaurant offers great views of the city. Indulging in an excellent beer from their own microbrewery on a hot day, seemed a perfect way to unwind and enjoy the moment. The food was quite nice and the service was excellent. The place was quite relaxing with cool vibes. Probably would be nicer to go in the evening to enjoy some music and soak in a more lively ambience.
Mocha
Located in the same building on the ground floor as Terra Maya, Mocha has a very aesthetic decor and ambience. The coffee and deserts are to die for. The menu offers lovely thick shakes and number of coffee options. Since we visited the cafe right after Terra Maya we were not able to try the food.
Then there is street food! Assam has quite a bit of a Bengali and Tibetan influence when it comes to food. We hit a couple of places that sold Bengali sweets such as Rasgullas and Ras Malai. From Pani Puri and aloo Tikki to local specialities like Luchi Mangsho the vibrant street food scene is quite dynamic. You will also find momos in almost every nook and corner of Guwahati. We tried their local dish called Til Pitha. It is made of rice and stuffed with jaggery and sesame. Pitha is a combination of slightly sweet and bland. It goes great with a cup of masala chai.
The Assamese are sports crazy. Cricket and football are the two most popular sports that the people follow in Assam. The amount of detailed knowledge they had about every cricketing player was quite mind boggling. We were visiting right in the midst of the cricket World Cup and indulging in a friendly banter and deep analysis about the game was fun and the talk of the town. No wonder there are so many sports stores in Guwahati. If you are a sports lover then watching a game of cricket or a football match maybe worth an experience.
Our little less than two days in Guwahati passed off in a breeze. The experiences were wonderful but we were quite relieved to leave this bustling city and explore the more quieter and off the beaten path of upper Assam. As told to us by our friends upper Assam’s beauty beckoned, and we were ready to embark on our next exploration of Nameri National Park and Forest Reserve.
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